Situated on an island 25 miles upstream from the world-famous Victoria Falls, Tsowa Safari Island is an eco-conscious and contemporary explorer-style tented camp.
When an invitation appeared in my Inbox from Phoenix Collective to visit a property in Zimbabwe, I accepted without hesitation. Excited by this new partnership, Phoenix Collective Director Nicky Arthur tells me: “This phenomenal property in the Isibindi Africa Lodges portfolio is such a wonderful addition for us. The people at Isibindi are what make the place, and their community work is so authentic, you can just feel that they are changing people’s lives.”
Eager to experience it for myself, my journey starts on a Monday morning at Cape Town International Airport with Airlink, flying to OR Tambo International Airport, with the final leg arriving at Victoria Falls International Airport.
After having my passport stamped by a friendly Immigration official at the airport, I collect my suitcase at the carousel and am on my way. Waiting for me is a gentleman from Africa Travel Tours who is driving me to the private entrance at Zambezi National Park. Guide Mtabisi is parked in the Tsowa Safari Island open 4×4 game viewer, and we start making our way through the park towards the jetty, where boat captain Farai is behind the wheel of the speedboat, doing the trip from the banks of the Zambezi to the jetty of Tsowa Safari Island.
Climbing out of the boat, I am welcomed by the staff, and waiter Nesbert offers me something to drink. My table has been set up with views over the Zambezi, and shortly after I sit down, I dine on delicious kebabs prepared by head chef Regatta and milk tart for dessert. The main area has a spacious lounge where guests can relax, or sit in a comfortable chair reading one of the novels or books found in the bookshelf at Tsowa Safari Island.
I am staying in River Deck Safari Tent number 8, a leisurely stroll along a sandy path from the main area under a canopy of shaded trees. A wooden walkway leads to the entrance of my tent, and two chairs and a table on my veranda are ideal spots from which to take in the fresh African air or spot a bird flitting past on the river. Opening the zips to my domicile for the next three nights, the space is beautifully furnished, with a writing desk and chair to the right, an inclusive mini-bar, a safe for valuables, and wardrobe space.
To the left is a chair, a bedside table, and the focal point is the bed, which is draped in soft white linen. There is another bedside table and more wardrobe space on the left-hand side of the bed. A wooden door opens up into the bathroom, where there is a vanity, an indoor + outdoor shower, and a flush loo. Sustainability at Tsowa Safari Island is integral to its ethos and operations, aligning with the broader Isibindi Africa Lodges commitment to responsible tourism and conservation, and includes conservation-first locations, eco-friendly infrastructure, community impact, and a low footprint tourism.
This afternoon’s activity is a sunset cruise on the Zambezi, and gliding along in a pontoon, we spot a variety of wildlife on the banks and in the river. Guide Zulu is pointing out the bird species that are perched on bare tree branches against a blue sky – there is a Pied Kingfisher trying to fish and a few white fronted bee eaters seemingly enjoying the warmth of the setting sun. A baby crocodile looks like it’s holding on for dear life on a fallen branch in the river, and one by one, a pod of hippos starts yawning, which is an indication of a territorial display.
A fabulous birding destination, the resident and migrant birds at Tsowa Safari Island will delight twitchers and any guest who appreciates the winged creatures. Spotting an African Finfoot on our sunset cruise along the banks of the Zambezi causes great enthusiasm, and the two yellow-bellied greenbuls making an appearance at breakfast every morning are so sweet. Look out for the Pels Fishing Owl, Schalow’s Turaco, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, and migratory birds that arrive in September, notably the Rock Pratincole and African Skimmer.
Dinner is served in the dining room, and I opt for the pan-seared crocodile fillet strips in a light peri-peri & cream sauce for starters, deboned marinated grilled chicken sliced onto sadza fries for the main course, and chocolate & coffee mousse with a toasted biscuit crumb for dessert. The camp is fenced, so guests can walk to their tents unaccompanied if they feel safe to do so. If not, their guide will see them to the front door of their tent. After a cleansing shower with the fragrant Healing Earth products, I fall into a deep sleep and am awoken by the lovely sound of two African Fish Eagles calling. Subsequent to breakfast, which consists of a continental spread, hot options, fruit, juices, and hot beverages, I head down to the jetty for the boat crossing to the safari vehicle parked on terra firma.
Approaching the riverbank, a small herd of bull elephants is feeding, and one of them suddenly lifts his head and charges forward, trunk in the air. Behind him, another two are engaged in a scuffle, pushing each other around with their ears flapping. This morning is all about elephants, and seeing different herds makes me once again realize how therapeutic it is to watch them, especially the calves. Concluding our drive with a bull that has just had a swim in the river, he turns towards us, and starts throwing sand over himself as it acts as a sunscreen for elephants.
Following lunch, which is tasty coleslaw, chicken wraps, and banana cake, I decide to recline in the lounge. Looking around the main area, it’s clear that a lot of consideration went into building Tsowa Safari Island. The giant termite mound was the departure point for where the camp was to be placed. Accents of creams, beiges, and greys make up the lounge, with a large mural of the Victoria Falls strategically placed against the wall. In summer, the pool offers a welcome respite from the heat and also has those incredible views over the Zambezi.
In the wake of a laid-back afternoon, Mtabisi and I depart on our safari, hoping to find a few more interesting wildlife which inhabit Zambezi National Park. Elephants really love this part of Zimbabwe as we see them on the island and set eyes on a breeding herd having a drink and a bath in the river. Driving alongside the Zambezi, I see a bird sitting on a branch. It’s a stunning brown-hooded Kingfisher! Mtabisi cuts the engine. We sit. We wait. We listen. There’s another one – it’s the male. He is brighter in coloring, and the pair sit on opposite sides of the branch, opening their wings every so often while serenading each other. Chef Lumbani has once again prepared a delicious dinner with the freshest ingredients.
The pre-dawn chorus is out in full swing, with various birds serenading the start of a new day and the odd hippo letting out a loud snort. With breakfast done, Mtabisi wants to try and find some big cats, and a few minutes into our safari, he sees leopard tracks in the sand. We don’t find the leopard, but also stumble across lion footprints. The elephants are having a bath on the banks of the river again, and Farai veers to the right side of the island, where a family of hippos is busy basking in the sun. There is the cutest calf, and mom is keeping close watch over him.
Waiter Beki is ready with my favorite soft drink, and shows me to my table where I dine on chicken, salad, and scrumptious chocolate cake. We are exploring a part of Zambezi National Park, which is a good hour’s drive away. It’s called Chamabondo Vlei and the topography is wide open spaces with grassy plains.
It’s a great place for wildlife, especially those who like seeing what could be in the distance to safeguard themselves against a sudden attack. We encounter a herd of zebras, Kori Bustards, Southern ground hornbills, elephants having a playful tussle, and the most adorable hyena cub lying just outside the den.
Tonight, the chef has put in a lot of effort for dinner, and the choices are delicious, especially the baobab cheesecake for dessert. Taking a stroll to my safari tent, I look up at the night sky, which is littered with stars. Shining bright is Tsowa Safari Island, paving the way to an unforgettable stay in this special part of Africa.
For more information or to book, visit https://www.tsowasafariisland.co.za/
