Italy has a unique way of turning landscapes into poetry. Nowhere is that more evident than Lake Iseo, a serene escape just an hour from Milan’s Linate Airport. Known as Sebino in Latin—meaning “double-hooked”—the lake winds between Bergamo and Brescia, touching a dozen small towns, many with medieval roots.
I arrived on the eastern shore in Sulzano to a burst of fireworks, an unexpected welcome that set the tone for the days ahead. A short walk down a quiet, lamplit street brought me to Hotel Rivalago, a boutique four-star property overlooking the water. Morning revealed the true magic: Monte Isola rising in front of my window, its sun-washed facades glowing in warm tones of terracotta and ochre.
Family-owned and elegantly renovated, Rivalago feels intimate yet airy. The décor leans toward soft blues and creams, complemented by rich fabrics, antique furniture, and tall linen curtains. The lakeside lawn, dotted with palms, leads to a heated pool and floating pontoon where guests slip into kayaks or lounge by the water.
A Ferry to Monte Isola
Sulzano’s ferry stop makes exploring simple. I crossed the lake toward Monte Isola, the largest inhabited lake island in Europe. The scene felt almost Venetian: striped mooring poles, the clatter of wooden gates, and quiet churches anchoring tiny villages. Willow trees dipped into the water, shading narrow paths where locals and visitors wandered side by side.
Cyclists moved along the boardwalk between Peschiera Maraglio and Sensole, passing gardens, a cat sanctuary, and small cafés overlooking the lake. Life here unfolds at an easy pace, shaped by sunshine and stillness.
Sailing the Venetian Ketch “Nessa”
To see the lake from its most peaceful angle, I boarded Nessa, a 50-year-old Venetian wooden ketch. The two-masted boat carries up to eight guests and glides with an old-world grace. My skipper, Davide, offered light bites and local wine as we traced a route around Monte Isola.
Once he switched off the engine, the lake settled into silence. Only the soft splash of water against the hull remained. We drifted past the private islands of San Paolo and San Loreto, each with its own character—one lush with foliage, the other crowned with small castellations. Sailing Iseo Lake’s motto is simple: “What remains are the experiences.” They’re right.
Into Franciacorta: Italy’s Sparkling Secret
Between Iseo and Brescia lies Franciacorta, a region recognized for producing some of Italy’s finest sparkling wine. Made using the same method as Champagne, Franciacorta feels softer and more approachable, often preferred for its gentle acidity.
L’Albereta: A Retreat in the Woods
My next stay was L’Albereta, a Relais & Châteaux property in Erbusco. Receptionists dressed in signature green-and-white uniforms greeted me warmly. The hotel stretches across five Neo-Renaissance buildings tucked inside a wooded estate. Each of the 57 rooms is unique; mine, a romantic attic hideaway, featured terracotta tones, marble floors, and a private balcony with sweeping views of vineyards and distant lakes.
Dining here is an experience in itself. Options range from the treetop terrace of Stanza 54 to the bio-light dishes at Ristorante Benessere. The showstopper is L’Aurum, a fine-dining theatre of mirrors, artful plating, and seasonal Italian ingredients.
Wellness the Chenot Way
L’Albereta houses a renowned Chenot Wellness Retreat, staffed by 40 specialists in hydrotherapy, nutrition, osteopathy, and more. My programme combined mud treatments, hydrotherapy, and a cupping lymphatic massage. The results were immediate—lighter, clearer, restored. With a helipad, boutique, and a celebrity guest list that includes Sophia Loren, the property sets the standard for wellness in Lombardy.
Bellavista & The Art of Sparkling Wine
A tour of nearby Bellavista Winery revealed Franciacorta’s dedication to hand-crafting. Rows of vines lined the hills with geometric precision. Harvest begins in late August, followed by traditional hand-turning of the bottles, known as riddling. The “non dosato” variety—crisp and sugar-free—was a standout.
Cadebasi: A Hidden Culinary Gem
Dinner at Cadebasi was revelatory. The dining room, with teal walls, exposed beams, and decorative wine racks, sets the tone for chef Cristiano’s inventive dishes. Owner Alex curated a tasting of local flavours—both indulgent and plant-forward. The menu’s slogan, buffetti, hints at small joys. It fits perfectly.
Crossing to Lake Maggiore
To explore where the Milanese escape on weekends, I headed 90 minutes west to Arona, on Lake Maggiore. This lake feels different—less international, more quietly European, often visited by Swiss, Dutch, French, and German travelers.
Arona’s Culinary Simplicity
Down a narrow street, I found Anticogallo, a rustic restaurant with tartan fabrics and a warm welcome from owners Isabella and Stefano. Their roast chicken was comforting and honest, the kind of meal that makes you feel like a local rather than a passerby.
Castello Dal Pozzo: A Historic Stay
A short drive brought me to Castello Dal Pozzo, a Preferred Hotels property run by the Dal Pozzo family. The estate dates back to the 10th century and spans 59 acres of manicured parkland. Three buildings make up the hotel: the historic Stables, the Neo-Gothic Castello, and the Palazzo.
My room in the Palazzo overlooked Lake Maggiore through French windows, with canopy bedding, antique furniture, and soft blue tones. The enfilade of reception rooms led to Le Fief, the elegant fine-dining restaurant. After dinner, I walked through Dan Garden Lounge’s beautiful lawns and then into the quiet village church of Oleggio Castello, its bells marking the hour.
A Final Crossing
On my last morning, I took the ferry from Arona to Santa Caterina, passing market stalls and village docks. The Eremo hermitage clings to the cliffs with the Alps rising behind it—an unforgettable sight. Returning to Arona, I dined at La Vecchia Arona, where chef Gabriele and his wife Sabrina offered refined lake fish and thoughtful service in a nautical-inspired dining room.
As evening settled and fireworks lit the sky once more, I felt the perfect symmetry of my Italian journey—beginning and ending in celebration.
