On the grasslands of Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau, Segera Retreat is tucked away amongst giant euphorbias, towering bougainvilleas, and lofty yellow bark acacias.
Time. One of the most precious commodities. Choosing to spend it wisely can be life-altering. Arriving at Segera on a Thursday morning via Cessna 182, the landscape stretches below me. Captain Nile does a loop around the airstrip to check that it’s clear for landing. He banks the 4-seater fixed-wing aircraft to show me a small herd of elephants walking on the plains. When I asked him earlier how far the property is from the airstrip, he wasn’t joking when he said he would drop me off in the car park!
Guide Simon is standing next to the Segera branded Toyota Land Cruiser to welcome me to my home for the next three nights. Guest experience manager Jerry hands me a cooling towel. Walking across the wooden bridge, which doubles as a star deck, service attendant Peter is waiting with a refreshing drink. I’m having lunch at Paddock House, which used to be part of the cattle ranch before it was turned into Segera Retreat.
Most of the spaces have significant meaning. The wine tower’s shape resembles that of a Samburu woman’s elongated neck. What used to be horse stables is now an interesting art gallery with specially curated pieces. Once a mismanaged cattle farm, the 50,000-acre ranch has been turned into one of the most iconic properties in the heart of the wilderness. Joining me for lunch is effervescent general manager Jens. He speaks with undulated passion about Segera and how it came to be such a renowned escape for guests who simply want to get away from it all. And still be in the absolute lap of luxury.
His eyes sparkle with enthusiasm as he recounts what has been achieved in the past thirteen years. “Segera was constructed by local builders from Kenya,” Jens tells me over a selection of food prepared by Head Chef Violet. He takes a sip of his homemade kombucha. Becoming pensive for a moment, he recalls that the land was overgrazed and fenced off. Smiling broadly, he proudly points to the green lawn just beyond the dining area. A slight frown furrows his brow. “Can you believe that when we started the project, lions were barely seen? After the fences were dropped and the wildlife could roam freely, different species found their home at Segera. It is an incredible rewilding success story.” Jens gently tucks into the scrumptious chicken wings, advising that I, too, should eat mine with my hands. When the pastry chef delivers dessert, he clearly loves the banana bread they make here. A second slice? Of course!
After lunch, Villa Attendants (yes, each villa has its own staff complement), Ezuro, and Pauline show me to Garden Villa 1. With sweeping views over the surroundings and the watering hole a few yards away, I am at a loss for words. The double-story dwelling has a downstairs section, with a daybed and a seating area. Up the stairs, a black aluminium and glass-framed door opens up into the villa space, which consists of a wardrobe, a lounge, a bedroom, and a bathroom. On the outside deck, a freestanding tub can be filled any time, day or night, with or without bubbles. Coming back from a game drive and receiving a handwritten note from my butlers to say ‘enjoy the hot bath’ adds a special touch to my stay.
Interiors were the handiwork of Maira Koutsoudakis from Life Interiors Architecture and Strategic Design. An eclectic blueprint paved the way for a contemporary aesthetic. Think understated elegance coupled with tactile fabrics and bold finishes. Beds are draped in the softest linens, with billowing mosquito nets, creating a sense of romance. Double vanities in white are beautifully offset against dark wooden shutters. And not losing sight of the hero of Segera. On a clear day, Mount Kenya, the second largest peak in Africa after Mount Kilimanjaro, rises from the plateau base, standing proud at 17,057 ft.
Segera is perfectly positioned at an altitude of 5,905 ft above sea level. This makes for an all-year temperate climate, the ideal environment for twice-daily safaris. Simon is keen to showcase the wildlife that inhabits the private reserve. Setting off on our afternoon safari, he shares the news that Segera has released a number of endangered Eastern black rhinos into the Rhino Conservancy. He suddenly slows the vehicle down and picks up his binoculars.
Far in the distance, a shape comes into view. Simon grins like a contented father. “This is Kitue,” he whispers. In spite of the rhino’s bad eyesight, he edges closer to us, but we move out of his way. What an amazing privilege to see this animal in its natural habitat.
Tonight, I am having dinner in the Wine Tower. Violet has crafted a delectable choice of vegetables, potato wedges, and beef fillet. My meal is concluded with melt-in-your-mouth vanilla ice cream. The Wine Tower houses an enviable range of white and red wines, rosés, and champagnes. It is a popular venue for couples or honeymooners wanting some privacy. Or guests simply enjoying a celebratory meal. An eye-catching detail is the glass chandelier, which is suspended from the very high ceiling. Retiring for the night, I am filled with anticipation of what the following day will bring.
Before heading out on the morning safari, Peter presents me with scrumptious biscuits and hot chocolate. Today, Simon wants to try and track down the most elusive of them all – a leopard. We don’t find her as the terrain where she has stashed her cubs is almost impenetrable. All is not lost as we spot a few figures flat in the grass. It’s the Central Pride, consisting of two male lions, three lionesses, five sub-adults, and three new cubs. There are only four of the pride members here, and the young lioness seems rather intrigued by a small herd of zebra. Her brother, on the other hand, is looking up at vultures circling in the sky.
Elephants form an integral part of any ecosystem. They are often seen as ‘destructive’ because they break down trees and uproot them. Not only are they highly intelligent, but they also contribute to plants growing by providing gaps in the vegetation when they feed on the foliage. Watching a breeding herd with calves of differing ages is a wonderful experience. Two of the youngsters are chasing one another when a third one tries to join. Ears flapping, the tussle doesn’t last long when mom steps in. Not sure whether it was a look from her or the deep rumble she emitted.
Zebras can be very entertaining. These black and white striped equines all have unique patterns, similar to a human’s fingerprints. At Segera, there are the plains or common zebra and the threatened grévy’s zebra. Seeing a mom and daughter amongst a herd of plains zebra tugs at the heartstrings. Another highlight is encountering a leucistic zebra. This rare genetic condition causes the zebra to have a blonde coat. The stripes appear pale, and the eyes are different as they lack pigmentation.
Native to the Horn of Africa, two reticulated giraffes are busy feeding at the back of Paddock House. They are gorgeous, with large polygonal block-like spots. Sitting quietly at breakfast, I take in their magnificence. There is something truly magical about unhurried time spent in the bush. You set your own pace. Whether you choose to have a languid morning in your villa, witnessing the sun rise over the escarpment. Crafting your personal schedule is a real luxury. It’s one of Segera’s signature offerings, creating the ultimate East African safari.
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